See pics in Gallery or scroll below…
Walnut Native American-style Flute in E
w/a “fat, black Piano Key Bird” made of two ebony keys from a 100 year-old pump organ (sort of a wind instrument…?)
& sculpted “faux nodes” in homage of river cane
slightly wider in the rear and tapers before holes (for an un-cramped nest)
Fundamental note: E4
Standard contemporary tuning of NAsF minor pentatonic (primary scale)
Plenty of intuitive cross-fingerings (extended scales)
and second register notes available as demonstrated (a little) below.
Calibrated to US standard of A=440 @ approx. 72F (with decent breath pressure)
A quick & dirty demo:
This is the flute, the actual unit used :
(See Proper Pics of this Walnut model listed below, or in Gallery above)
The hardwood body of this flute is bored straight through, with a 7/8″ gun drill on a very long lathe. It’s one piece with uninterrupted wood grain, not split, in this case (not that those are bad, I do that sometimes, still).
Blessed: My flutes garner wonderful feedback, with great comments about tuning, performance, and playability, for years, now.
Love warblers or hate them, fine either way — while this one does warble (on the lowest note), it will only do it if you want it to, in a very deliberate window of marked, extra breath (no accidental warbling should happen because you have to blow very sharp to warble, and can also pass that window and overblow). Win-win.
Shipping will only add $10 (essentially splitting the cost with me) — it comes in the most premium, crush-proof pasteboard shipping tube with removable caps, that can be kept for transport and flute safekeeping.
The low-gloss, matte finish is not like a surface varnish. Rather, I use a penetrating, “drying oil” formula that hardens “in the wood, instead of on top of it”. The result is a permanent, protective finish that does not require waxing but is fine with flute waxes, too. We like Odie’s Oil (beeswax/oil formula w/carnuba) and use a little on it after the primary finish is cured.
Photo credits: Tina Burris